Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

There are two words I really hate to read in Italy: "No Photo". Especially when I've paid an entrance fee to see something. This irks me the most, and I rarely ever use the word "irk". (What also bothers me is having to pay upwards of $1 CAD for public toilets, but it is something my loyal bladder helps me avoid in most situations.)

Imagine my dismay when I showed up to the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella for an art history lecture with Neru in tow, only to be greeted with a sign that said "No Photo" and a prompt reminder by a custodian that photos were not allowed. BLARGH! I only managed to take one of its beautiful facade.

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, complete with obelisk and tourists

Of note in the Domenican basilica, whose name also lends itself to the nearby train station, were the following capolavori:

• Masaccio's fresco Trinità (around 1430), considered the first painting of the Renaissance as it shows perspective, proportion, and space. He painted this when he was only 22 years old. At the bottom of the fresco, under a skeleton, is the telling inscription (in truncated Latin), "IO FV GA QVEL CHE VOI SETE EQVEL CHISON VOI AC SARETE", which can be roughly translated as "I was what you are and what I am now you will be". If that doesn't tell you to carpe diem I don't know what will!
• Giotto's crucifix of Santa Maria Novella (1290), an exquisitely painted cross, hangs from the ceiling behind the church's pews. It is one of the most important works of Italian art and its realism was deemed ahead of its time as Giotto's depiction of the human body was carried out without knowledge of Vitruvius' anatomical calculations
• Ghirlandaio's frescoes of Mary, John the Baptist, and the Final Judgement in the Cappella Maggiore (1480), commissioned by the Tornabuoni family. The only note that I made was that Ghirlandaio included portraits of him and his friend, fellow painter Filippo Lippi, as townspeople in one of the scenes
• Filippino Lippi's frescoes of St. John (evangelist) and St. Philip in the Cappella di Filippo Strozzi (circa 1500). These anticipate Michelangelo's frescoes of the Sistine Chapel which were painted a year later and mark the beginnings of mannerism.
• The crucifix of Brunelleschi in the Capella Gondi. Brunelleschi's only wooden sculpture. This artist, I learned, was quite the character. He was extremely competitive and was considered a master of all trades. Though he started off as a watchmaker and was not well-educated (he didn't speak Latin--gasp!), he became a master architect, engineer, sculptor, and goldsmith. He's the architect behind the famous cupola of Florence's Duomo! Also of interesting note was that he was good friends with Donatello, who complemented Brunelleschi perfectly--D was well-educated and a theorist whereas B was the practical one.
• Not covered in the lecture was a small painting I found quite beautiful: Annunciazione (the Annunciation) by Neri di Bicci

I know, I know. You wish I had photos to back up this information. So do I. 

After the lesson, there was a free guided tour of the Chiesa di Ognissanti (briefly mentioned here). And since I hadn't written much about it before, I naturally barely remembered anything, such as:

Chiesa di Ognissanti's trompe l'oeil architecturally painted ceiling

The altar

The recently restored painted cross of Giotto

The church also houses Ghirlandaio's painting of San Girolamo and Botticelli's of Sant'Agostino.

But while this whole tour was taking place, I only had one thing on my mind: gelato at La Carraia! I went with Lana and Leni right after the tour ended and I ordered cookies and opera italiana.

Later, after dinner and a quasi-successful conversation with Smeek on Skype (it was our first time chatting in over two months!), I watched one of my favourite movies, Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind, with Leni and Rob in Italian. I was happy to find I still loved the movie and that the girls enjoyed it too. If you're wondering, its Italian title is Se mi lasci ti cancello (=If you leave me I'll delete you). They really get to the point!

Today's word of the day is capolavoro, meaning "masterpiece".